I havent had a dirt bike since I was a kid, and would love to dink around on one again. The guy selling it didn't even know what it was. It was listed as "Suzuki dirt bike, doesnt run". He was asking $150, but I knocked it down to $75. Its not in the greatest shape, but I've seen worse.
I noticed right off the bat that the compression was not where it should be when I turned it over. Being an old bike, I figured it just had a stuck ring from old castor oil or something. I hoped it would just loosen up on its own.
Well, it didnt.. I pulled off the exhaust and found this:
So it was time for a top end rebuild. Bottom end and wrist bearings felt perfect, so I left them alone. Found a NOS .50mm genuine Suzuki oversize piston on ebay, along with set of new rings. I did some calling around to some machine shops. Lindsay Machine Racing is the best known machine shop around for this type of work, but they wanted $90 a hole to bore! I called around to some other shops. Most wont touch 2 stroke cylinders, due to the ports. I found some guy that would charge $30, but he didnt sound very confident. Then I called a machine shop that a buddy used for his 22re head work. "Crankshaft Grinders". Very nice, knowledgeable older guy, with some younger kids working for him. $40 to bore it over. The exhaust port had some damage from the rings mashing against em, but most of that got worked out during the bore. He did an awesome job. I took a new ring, and checked the endgap from one end of the cylinder to the other, and it was spot on! I'll be re-using this guy in the future with the CB200 I have. He chamfered the exhaust port, and I chamfered the rest:
Cleaned it all up, a touch of assembly lube, and its time for re-assembly:
The bike immediately had monstrous compression compared to the way it was! It started right up after about 4 kicks:
Thats about it for now. It needs to be broken in. The bike still needs a lot of other work. Tank is rusted out, needs a chain. Tach and speedo are missing, but I dont really care about those. Oil injector is not hooked up, so it runs premix. But it has a pressurized crank oiler, so I should get that working again. Should prolly get a title too
Harbor freight is an interesting place.. You either hate the quality of the tools, and never shop there. Or, like me, you love it cus it has hard to find specialized tools, for DIRT cheap, and conveniently located.
Im currently in the process of removing, and remounting the plastics on the gixxer properly. During dissassemly, I noticed that numerous points are mounted directly to the hollow aluminum frame, via threaded steel inserts. Many of these inserts have been destroyed by the previous owner shoving wood screws in them, stripping them out, or forcing them to the point where they completely fall out. I thought I was screwed (HAH!), and would have to tig weld, or solder some small nuts in there place.
Harbor freight saves the day! $16.99 buys you a "nutsert" clone riveted nut insert gun, and $10 buys you 100 inserts!!
Hmmm, whats this hiding behind my truck's grill?
Its the Hadley "The Bully" Air horn kit I picked up @ the DI for $25!
Included the Compressor, Tank, Solenoid, switches, etc.
My horn now sounds like a semi truck
Well today I finally got a hold of a guy on craigslist that was advertising "GSXR Project Bike, Needs work" No price, year, model, or contact info. After a couple of days of emailing, I find its a 2000 GSXR 600 that he cant get started after it sat all winter. I finally get a phone number, and tells me $350 if I take it today :O
I head to Park City right after work, stopping @ an ATM on the way. When I get there, the douchfag raises the price to $400! "Dude, I gotta get $400 cus my Bro will give me $500". I stuck to my guns, and managed to get it for $357 (gave him an extra $7 in my wallet).
Here it is on the way home:
The whole bike is hacked up bad. Wiring, just about everything cosmetic, blinkers, exhaust, everything is bad shape. Blinkers are screwed in on the sides of the plastics in the wrong spot, top triple tree clamp has huge holes on it, etc. etc. etc.
After unloading I go straight to work. Ignition comes on, but no crank. So I take a jumper cable and jump the battery straight to the starter. It now cranks, but still no life. Pulled up the tank and yanked the airbox. Manually choke the carbs with my hand, and there is fuel, but still no fire. Pulled a plug, no spark. Started poking around the wiring. The wiring on this thing is hacked up pretty bad. But I did find a burned fuse! After jumping the fuse, I hear a relay click, and the fuel pump kick on. Bingo! Spark! I throw the plug back in and it fired right up! Runs like CRAP but it runs. Carbs need rebuilt badly, but luckily I have a spare engine with carbs for parts! (I have a 98 GSXR600 motor that was going to be a kart project, but it never happened)
I even took it for a quick spin tonight, and it rides good!
Here is a quick video:
Still LOTS of work to do!
So I was at the DI last weekend. I stumbled apon this:
A Panasonic TH-50PHW3U 50" 720p Plasma, for $100. Original MSRP $9670 in 2003!
At this price, it obviously didnt work. It turned on for about 4 seconds, then shut off with the power LED flashing red. On the chassis a repair estimate/bill was attached. It had a couple of part numbers listed, and scribbled on was the note "Panel est. declined". Cost of repair, $978.84. The entire time "bad capacitors!" is running through my head. I lug it home, and immediately open it up.
Holy shit this thing is complicated, check out the screwdriver in the corner for scale.
First thing I hunted for were bad/swolen/leaking caps. Didnt find any, which was a let down. That night, I do a LOT of research, trying to dig up the service manual for it. I never did find the correct one, but did find one for a similar panel. There are some troubleshooting guides specifically for the LED code it was flashing. I soon came to the conclusion while unhooking the 2 parts listed on the repair estimate that those parts are fine. The estimate was bogus.
Further testing, swapping, and measuring determines that the either the Power board (P1) or Scan Converter board (SC) is the culprit. I measured a voltage called "Vbk". This line supplies 195v to the Scan Converter board. When powered on, I measured this @ zeroV! However as soon as the unit is powered off, it jumps to normal voltage temporarily. Also when this cable is disconnected from the SC board, and is measured off P1, it is normal voltage. Bingo, the SC board must be drawing too much current, and shutting down that output! There are also diagnostic LED's on several boards internally. All light up bright, except the SC board. It lights, but is quite dim. Im pretty confident at this point the SC board is the problem.
Jumped on ebay, $116 and a few days later:
Jackpot! The next day I bought a cheap universal remote, and played PS2 on it for about 4 hours straight. Still works great!