DashFest JJ's life and project dumping grounds…


The Superman

Over the weekend I worked on the Suzuki TS250 I picked up a while back. Ripped off all the electronics and road junk. Tank is from a TS185, and is slightly smaller, but works fine. built a throttle cable for it, and took it for a couple of spins.

It is now named "The Superman" for obvious reasons.

It runs great! I was surprised with its power for an enduro

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Whats this…

Acquired this...  Going to build something out of it.  Wanna guess?  Clue... its LOUD.


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This project has actually been mostly completed for some time. I just haven't taken the time to rip it back down and take pictures to blog about. Well, today I did. Its different than most other NES PC's in that the PSU is integrated into the NES also. Most others use external power bricks to power. Mine uses a standard PC power cord! It also utilizes the original controller ports for UNMODIFIED NES controller awesomeness. Many others get swapped to USB ports, and they use USB NES controllers, or USB adapters. (Cheaters)

From the front it looks like an ordinary NES.

From the rear it starts to look different.

The first attempt at this build failed, and I ended up starting over. The NES enclosure seemed to not quite have enough room for both a motherboard and a PSU. This is why others end up with a external power brick. I figured out that the TOP of the enclosure actually has more room than the bottom. So I flipped the motherboard upside down, and mounted everything to the top! This is a VERY tight fit, but it works. As you can see, the NES is actually upside down in this picture. The only parts mounted in the bottom half are the HDD, switches, and controller ports. The motherboard backplate needed to be trimmed on one side to match the angles of the NES.

Below is a view of the standoffs that were cut off from other areas in the casing, and epoxied into the lid for motherboard standoffs. Much of the inside of the casings was dremeled off to make room for the good bits.

The original power and reset buttons were utilized, along with the LED. However the motherboard physically conflicted with the reset switch. I ended up removing the switch and replacing it with a much smaller one, epoxied in place. This gave the needed clearance. The original wiring was soldered directly to a section of a floppy connector, which just gets pressed onto the appropriate motherboard front panel header.

The original controller ports are fully functional. You can connect standard NES controllers, and they work great. This was accomplished via the parallel port. You can actually wire many different console controllers to a parallel port, if you use the right driver. The parallel port is capable of handling up to 5 controllers simultaneously! Right now, its just wired for 2. But maybe in the future I'll add SNES/Genesis/etc. controller ports, hidden under the NES cartridge door. :)

The schematics that I found online powered the controllers with the 5v+ available from the parallel port itself. This calls for 5 diodes connected to the port. I also heard issues with the lack of current LPT ports put out, especially with multiple controllers. I decided to scrap the diodes, and go straight for a 5v+ off an unused USB header on the motherboard. This gives PLENTY of current, and I didn't need the protection diodes as USB power is protected on its own. You can see the purple USB header wire in the photo below.  This worked perfectly, and this makes the schematic/adapter wiring only. No parts needed! The motherboard only has a parallel header, rather than a DB25 on the rear. This actually works out perfectly. I used a hacked up section of a 44 pin laptop IDE cable/connector as it has the same pin pitch as the header on the board. The manual for the board kindly gives the header pinout, as it is different than the DB25. The following schematic assumes DB25, NOT the motherboard header

That pretty much covers the bulk of the project. Most of the time was spent dremeling the crap out of the casing. It turned out pretty clean, although I feel I could of done a better job with some of the cutouts.  Ideas for the future include a slim optical drive in the cartridge door as there is enough room.  Might add more controller ports for other console controllers.  I need to build an autostart GUI front end for the emulator, that lets you choose the rom to play using the controllers, rather than needing a kb/mouse.  The reset button should probably be rewired and mapped to reset the emulator, and not the PC.  I have several times now reset the PC thinking I'm just resetting my game! :)


MSI Wind Board D510 Intel Atom Motherboard. Link
2GB DDR2 800
60GB Seagate 2.5" SATA HDD
FSP Flex ATX 220w PSU
Currently running XP Pro (yea yea, I should of used Linux), FCEUX for emulation, PPJoy for the parallel port controller driver.

UPDATE! 4-27-11
I installed an optical drive in the NES PC. Check it out:


Backwards Mario (or other games)

So today I was cleaning the garage, and I see this little cheapo 13" CRT TV sitting there. I was reminded of an old Hackaday post that demonstrated that you can reverse the horizontal deflection coil wires, and get a mirrored image (For some reason I cant find this post). I then thought, "What would it be like to play NES games backwards??"

This is a super simple hack that took me about 30 minutes, but is fun! It adds a new dimension of play to old games.

Find and swap the Horizontal deflection wires on the yoke, as shown here:

Hook up something, and test it out! It took me a couple of attempts to find what pair is horizontal, and which were vertical.

Rip open an NES controller, and cut the 2 traces coming out of the Bottom of the "Left" and "Right" buttons. Expose some copper, and swap the traces using small wire, as shown.

Re-assemble and test... That's it! You can now play with normal controls, on a reversed screen. Here's the result:


DashFest.com server upgrade

Im building up a new server with a bit more Oomph:

New server

Drives galore!


1980 Suzuki TS250

I picked up this guy on KSL for $75.

I havent had a dirt bike since I was a kid, and would love to dink around on one again. The guy selling it didn't even know what it was. It was listed as "Suzuki dirt bike, doesnt run". He was asking $150, but I knocked it down to $75. Its not in the greatest shape, but I've seen worse.
I noticed right off the bat that the compression was not where it should be when I turned it over. Being an old bike, I figured it just had a stuck ring from old castor oil or something. I hoped it would just loosen up on its own.

Well, it didnt.. I pulled off the exhaust and found this:

Exhaust Port


Old Piston

So it was time for a top end rebuild. Bottom end and wrist bearings felt perfect, so I left them alone. Found a NOS .50mm genuine Suzuki oversize piston on ebay, along with set of new rings. I did some calling around to some machine shops. Lindsay Machine Racing is the best known machine shop around for this type of work, but they wanted $90 a hole to bore! I called around to some other shops. Most wont touch 2 stroke cylinders, due to the ports. I found some guy that would charge $30, but he didnt sound very confident. Then I called a machine shop that a buddy used for his 22re head work. "Crankshaft Grinders". Very nice, knowledgeable older guy, with some younger kids working for him. $40 to bore it over. The exhaust port had some damage from the rings mashing against em, but most of that got worked out during the bore. He did an awesome job. I took a new ring, and checked the endgap from one end of the cylinder to the other, and it was spot on! I'll be re-using this guy in the future with the CB200 I have. He chamfered the exhaust port, and I chamfered the rest:


Cleaned it all up, a touch of assembly lube, and its time for re-assembly:

New Piston


The bike immediately had monstrous compression compared to the way it was! It started right up after about 4 kicks:

Thats about it for now. It needs to be broken in. The bike still needs a lot of other work. Tank is rusted out, needs a chain. Tach and speedo are missing, but I dont really care about those. Oil injector is not hooked up, so it runs premix. But it has a pressurized crank oiler, so I should get that working again. Should prolly get a title too :D


The Microbike

This is the Microbike...  I built this back in 2004-2005.  This was just before I met Ash.  I had a lot of time on my hands. :D

Microbike compared to Murphys

It originally was a Runt bike, which I strapped an engine to the back with friction drive... it was fun, but I wanted to go smaller.  I hacked the frame in half, got rid of the rear suspension and bolted the swing arm on solid.  Welded a seat mount to the remainder of the frame.  Wheels are goped wheels, which fit well with spacers.  Rear wheel is specifically from the Goped GSR (Chain drive model), as you can bolt a sprocket to it.  Engine mount was fabricated from weldable steel from Lowes.  Engine is a 31cc ryobi weedeater engine, with the covers removed.  Flywheel fins were ground down to make the flywheel thin enough to fit in the mount.  Front sprocket is the smallest pocket bike sprocket I could find...6 tooth.  They come ready to thread onto the clutch they normally mount to on a pocket bike.  The ryobi did not have these female threads to accept the sprocket, but does have a long extension off the crank.  I cut male threads into the crank.  I then found 2 nuts that each thread onto the crank, and the sprocket.  I welded these together as straight as I could.  It took a couple of attempts, but eventually ended up with a perfect adapter.  Adapter screws onto crank, and sprocket screws onto the adapter.  I added axle pegs to not only put your feet on, but to also protect the bike from falls.  Fuel tank is off some weedeater, I don't remember...  added a twist throttle, and modded the exhaust so it didn't shoot into your leg.  The seat is a Harley backrest :)

Microbike Left

Microbike Right

That's about it!  No brakes.  No kill switch.  No clutch.  Direct drive...  You push start it, then jump on while its moving.  I takes quite a bit of practice to get it right.  It is also rear heavy, and likes to wheelie over if you aren't leaning forward.  It does about 20mph, which is PLENTY fast for its size.  It always seems to gather a crowd when I ride it in public areas. Its also been a tough little bugger... Been wrecked MANY times by different people, and can always be picked back up and ridden again.


DoomBOX on Hackaday/G4TV!

I submitted DoomBOX to Hackaday earlier this week, and it was accepted!

Since then, it went somewhat Viral, and eventualy made its way on TV:

Crazy! Thanks Hackaday for posting my project!


The DoomBOX

Ahh... the DoomBOX... This is a project I started, and ALMOST completed like a year ago, but then threw it on a shelf where it got dusty... Till tonight..
I dusted it off, and finished it up.. So here's the build:

It all started when I had a Kodak DC290 Camera with a bad lens. These cameras run "Digita" OS, and many apps have been written/ported to it. Various apps, games, MAME and..... Doom.

DC290 Playing Doom

Doom was playable on it, but the button locations are TERRIBLE to play with, and they were wearing out quickly. So I had the idea to cram the camera guts in a case, with nice classic "keyboard" type controls.

I started with tearing the entire lens, sensor, focusing system out and seeing if it still booted... It did.

Look ma, no lens!
Working without a lens

I continued ripping tons of parts out of it, anything that wasnt vital to running doom was taken. Here are SOME of the parts left over:


The camera frame internally supported the numerous boards, and after removed, there was a lof of empty space between them. The power supply board is soldered directly to the mainboards at a 90 degree angle. To reduce space, the boards were desoldered and seperated, then reconnected via wires. The boards were then sandwiched with plastic sheets for insulation, and hot glued in spots for rigidity.

Making it thinner
Way thinner

I then began to ponder control layouts. I came up with a pretty much classic control layout, as similar as playing it on a regular keyboard as possble, but still reasonable in the available space.


Working on the button board. Used a standard radio shack protoboard. Buttons are salvaged from a vintage PC keyboard. This is back when they used to build keyboards with individual switches, instead of a membrane. These arent "clicky" keys however, they have a soft feel. Rather than soldering the wires from the button board to the motherboard directly, I decided to create a 16 pin "header" for easy assembly. You can see this in the photo below.

Button board
Buttons poking

Each button and switch on the camera mainboard now has a wire soldered to it, which goes to a 16 pin plug, which is just a cut up floppy connector/cable. This plugs into the button board header above.

Button wiring

The internals are connected up. You can see, I added a larger speaker, as the original was way too quiet.


Thats pretty much it! I forgot to take pics of the screen install, but it was pretty simple. Cut out a hole of the case, glued it in place, and used the original ribbon cable to connect it up. The rest of the assembly is trivial. I glued Laptop keyboard keys to the control posts, and used an old Moto Q LCD glass to cover the screen. Added an LED on the top that blinks while loading from the 16MB Compact flash card installed within. It is currently powered by a 7v power brick, but there is room for a battery in the future. It will play mame games also, but eh... I wanted a DoomBOX! Video @ the end of this post


Gotta give credit where credit is due. Thanks to James Surine for creating this doom port years ago!


Harbor freight saves the day again!

Harbor freight is an interesting place.. You either hate the quality of the tools, and never shop there. Or, like me, you love it cus it has hard to find specialized tools, for DIRT cheap, and conveniently located.

Im currently in the process of removing, and remounting the plastics on the gixxer properly. During dissassemly, I noticed that numerous points are mounted directly to the hollow aluminum frame, via threaded steel inserts. Many of these inserts have been destroyed by the previous owner shoving wood screws in them, stripping them out, or forcing them to the point where they completely fall out. I thought I was screwed (HAH!), and would have to tig weld, or solder some small nuts in there place.

Harbor freight saves the day! $16.99 buys you a "nutsert" clone riveted nut insert gun, and $10 buys you 100 inserts!!


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